At the heart of each garment is the cloth. Samuel Snider works exclusively with select mills that share a reverence for the subtle nuance of natural materials and a commitment to craft. Every fabric used in our collection is chosen not only for its quality and enduring character, but for the hands that shape it and the values it reflects. Sourced from heritage factories with histories that span generations, some more than a century, we are proud to champion the integrity of expert weavers and makers of cloth.
Fabric is a crucial part of our creative process. It guides design, informs structure, and defines how a piece will wear over time. We prioritize natural fibers including wool, cotton, linen, silk, and hemp that are responsibly sourced and easily traceable throughout the supply chain. Our approach to fabric sourcing aligns with the historical narrative that informs our collection, while also helping to minimize our environmental impact.
Each of our partners shares our commitment to thoughtful production, with ongoing efforts toward greater sustainability. To work this way is not easy, but it gives us an immense sense of pride and purpose that carries through every finished piece. Each garment is patterned, cut, sewn and refined in-studio, then produced with care in New York’s Garment District. Our knitwear, which requires different expertise, is crafted internationally by artisans who share our values.
ITALIAN WOOL GABARDINE
100% Virgin Wool
460 gsm
A tightly woven wool gabardine from the storied Veneto region of Italy, produced by Bressan. Known for classically refined yet modern cloth, Bressan is a family-run mill specializing in tailoring fabrics.This gabardine is an excellent example. Structured yet pliant, it is highly versatile with a smooth hand and gentle drape that moves with elegance.
Featured in our Workhorse Trousers, Workhorse Jacket, Glean Coat
Shop by Italian Wool Gabardine
BRITISH WOOL HERRINGBONE
100% Merino Wool
375 g/m²
Spun and woven in Yorkshire by Abraham Moon, this traditional herringbone wool speaks to British fieldwear and the enduring utility of heritage cloth. Substantial in weight with a firm hand, it offers warmth and a grounded tactile quality made to weather time with grace. Made using raw bales of Shetland-type wool from farms certified by the Wool Integrity Programme across South Africa, New Zealand, and Great Britain, this fabric is woven on rapier looms and hand-checked at three stages to ensure consistent quality.
Featured in our Workhorse Jacket and Odile Coat.
Shop by British Wool Herringbone
SCOTTISH WAXED COTTON
100% BCI Cotton
285g/m²
Woven and finished in Dundee, Scotland by Halley Stevensons, pioneers of weatherproofed cotton since 1864, this unique fabric is made with Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) certified cotton and finished using a dry wax process. Weather-resistant without the shine or stiffness of traditional waxed cloth, it protects from the elements and breaks in like leather, softening and molding to the wearer over time. Waxed cotton garments can be reproofed regularly, making them steady companions in inclement weather, and in life.
Featured in our Glean Coat.
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BRITISH WOOL TWILL
100% Merino Wool
375 g/m²
This classic twill is spun and woven in Yorkshire by Abraham Moon on rapier looms using Shetland-type wool from farmers certified by the Wool Integrity Programme. Softer and finer than herringbone, the twill weave adds a sense of movement and ease. Founded in 1837, Abraham Moon is one of the last remaining vertical mills in the United Kingdom, managing every step of the manufacturing process, from yarn spinning to final finish, on a single site.
Featured in our Pleated Trousers, Workhorse Jacket
Shop by British Wool Twill
JAPANESE COTTON-LINEN SHIRTING
70% Cotton / 30% Linen
121g/m²
Woven in Japan by Furuhashi, a family-run mill rooted in Shizuoka since 1928, this soft, washed cotton-linen shirting offers a breathable structure that layers beautifully and transitions easily across seasons. Made using traditional methods on rare shuttle looms.
Featured in: Elementary Shirt, A Line Shirt, and as lining in the Odile Coat.
Shop by Japanese Cotton-Linen Shirting
BRITISH 8-WHALE CORDUROY
100% Cotton
470 g/m²
Established in 1858, Brisbane Moss has long been at the forefront of corduroy and moleskin manufacturing in Europe. Durable yet soft, with a deep, velvety finish, this 8-wale corduroy is cut using specialized machines prior to dyeing in West Yorkshire’s Calder Valley. The wideness of the wale lends a subtle sheen and structure to the fabric that softens and gathers character with wear. Made from OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified cotton.
Featured in our Men’s and Women’s Workhorse Trousers.
Shop by British 8-Whale Corduroy
